Lopeover
03-04-2003, 01:09 PM
I have ordered from these folks and am very impressed with their service, website and helpful hints. So I thought that I would share part of my e-mail newsletter from them. Tips on Pruning. Did you also know that some Hydrangeas are sun tolerant?
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Common question – Pruning
I wanted to address a common question I’ve been getting a lot lately. It’s about spring pruning. Most customers are asking ‘am I too late to prune my macrophylla?’ It’s really a tough question, especially with all the cold weather we’ve had across the country.
If you haven’t pruned yet, wait until the last hard frosts have passed and the hydrangea is starting to show lots of bud growth. Prune about 2” above a large bud about half way up the stem. Hopefully, there are at least a few nodes below the cut. You can usually prune about 1/3 of the size of the plant without harming the blooms.
There are several varieties of hydrangeas that can be pruned harshly without fear of losing the blooms. These families bloom on new wood and can be pruned anytime in the spring (or fall): Arborescens (e.g. Annabelle), Paniculata (e.g. Grandiflora), and a few macrophylla (e.g. All Summer Beauty).
Unfortunately, I often forget about two of my favorite families of hydrangeas when talking about pruning. The Aspera family is best to be left alone to grow as it likes. Pruning lightly to spur new branches and deadheading the old blooms is all you need to do. The Petiolaris is another variety that can be left to do its own weaving and climbing. The new leaves and blooms will eventually overtake the dried blooms, but the old blooms can be pruned if you don’t like that look.
New plants should be pruned lightly just for shape by pruning as little as possible to maintain the shrub shape. If your plant is leafing out, you may cover with an old bed sheet or large container to protect the buds from the late spring frosts.
Every year I renew my interest in hydrangeas and varieties that always prove to be great garden plants. Here are a few:
Macrophylla Enziandom –This is a smaller hydrangea that can be the deepest of blue, purple or vivid pink depending on the acidity of the soil. The dark green leaves are thicker than most and resist sun scorch better than most. This four-foot hydrangea is good in sun or light shade. The leaves will take on dark red tones in the fall. Hardy to zone 5b. http://www.hydrangeasplus.com/mophead_3.html
Serrata Beni Gaku –This is an early blooming classic lacecap that has colorful blooms that change color as the bloom ages. The bloom begins white and will age pink to red. It is more slender growing than the macrophylla hydrangeas. This four-foot hydrangea is good in sun or light shade. The leaves will get more and more red as the season progresses. Hardy to zone 6. http://www.hydrangeasplus.com/serrata_1.html
http://www.hydrangeasplus.com
*******
Common question – Pruning
I wanted to address a common question I’ve been getting a lot lately. It’s about spring pruning. Most customers are asking ‘am I too late to prune my macrophylla?’ It’s really a tough question, especially with all the cold weather we’ve had across the country.
If you haven’t pruned yet, wait until the last hard frosts have passed and the hydrangea is starting to show lots of bud growth. Prune about 2” above a large bud about half way up the stem. Hopefully, there are at least a few nodes below the cut. You can usually prune about 1/3 of the size of the plant without harming the blooms.
There are several varieties of hydrangeas that can be pruned harshly without fear of losing the blooms. These families bloom on new wood and can be pruned anytime in the spring (or fall): Arborescens (e.g. Annabelle), Paniculata (e.g. Grandiflora), and a few macrophylla (e.g. All Summer Beauty).
Unfortunately, I often forget about two of my favorite families of hydrangeas when talking about pruning. The Aspera family is best to be left alone to grow as it likes. Pruning lightly to spur new branches and deadheading the old blooms is all you need to do. The Petiolaris is another variety that can be left to do its own weaving and climbing. The new leaves and blooms will eventually overtake the dried blooms, but the old blooms can be pruned if you don’t like that look.
New plants should be pruned lightly just for shape by pruning as little as possible to maintain the shrub shape. If your plant is leafing out, you may cover with an old bed sheet or large container to protect the buds from the late spring frosts.
Every year I renew my interest in hydrangeas and varieties that always prove to be great garden plants. Here are a few:
Macrophylla Enziandom –This is a smaller hydrangea that can be the deepest of blue, purple or vivid pink depending on the acidity of the soil. The dark green leaves are thicker than most and resist sun scorch better than most. This four-foot hydrangea is good in sun or light shade. The leaves will take on dark red tones in the fall. Hardy to zone 5b. http://www.hydrangeasplus.com/mophead_3.html
Serrata Beni Gaku –This is an early blooming classic lacecap that has colorful blooms that change color as the bloom ages. The bloom begins white and will age pink to red. It is more slender growing than the macrophylla hydrangeas. This four-foot hydrangea is good in sun or light shade. The leaves will get more and more red as the season progresses. Hardy to zone 6. http://www.hydrangeasplus.com/serrata_1.html
http://www.hydrangeasplus.com