Computer ID & Wireless Questions

[HomeschoolrsRUs]

A friend of mine gave her old computer to my daughter.

eMachine T1100
1.0 Ghz Intel Celeron Processor
128 mb RAM
20 Gig Hard Drive
56K Data/Fax Modem ITU v.92 ready

When I checked on control panel it showed it had the "guts" (I don't know the proper technical lingo) for wireless.

MY computer is hooked up to high speed internet (CoxCable). What I want to do is, I think the proper term for this is, "network" the two computers so we can both access the interet. Does anyone know what kind of wireless router I need to get, and how to hook it up with a cable connection?

Any advice or suggestions are welcome, and greatly appreciated.

[DoctorDoom]

4 steps to set up your home wireless network (http://www.microsoft.com/athome/moredone/wirelesssetup.mspx) (Microsoft page)

Beginners Guides: Wireless Home Networking (http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=1428)

How to Set Up Your Home Network (http://www.pcworld.com/article/id,102461-page,1/article.html)

What version of Windows is the box running? It might require special drivers, but that remains to be learned.

[HomeschoolrsRUs]

Both computers are running Windows XP.

I'm just nervous about getting the right wireless, and how to hook it up to my existing cable box. The routers come in different price ranges, and I don't know what the difference is and which one would be best for the least ($).

[Timberwolf]

I have NetGear's MR814 (don't know WHY I got the wireless, cuz Ize only gots one box...musta been a reason though...this Someheimers can really be annoying at times). :D

I set it up by myself (so anyone should be able to do it). IIRC, it wasn't too terribly pricey, either and it has a hardwired firewall.

[jayson]

I take it her computer won't be next to yours, or within 20 feet or so? If that's the case, you can just hard wire it and not be forced to setup a wireless router. If so, all you will need is a 5/10/20/whatever foot ethernet cable and a wired router. Plug the router into the modem, and plug the computers into the router.

But yeah, if she wants it in her room that's halfway across the house or whatever, just better to go wireless.

If you do though, I highly suggest you secure the network, lest any pesky neighbors start using your wireless connection. This is really simple now and your router should come with instructions on how to do it.

Sorry if I confused you... I have a terrible way of relating knowledge without confusing people. :smirky:

[DoctorDoom]

I'm just nervous about getting the right wireless, and how to hook it up to my existing cable box. The output of the cable modem goes into the input of the router instead of to the computer. Some WAP (Wireless Access Point) boxes have wired outputs as well as wireless, so that the computer near the box can be hardwired. This is one such. (http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2755284&Sku=D700-5426)

Echoing jayson's point, if you're near your neighbors, it would be advisable to set it up with passwords to cut off the possibility of freeloading. That's common practice.

[Rhino]

And if you go with a wireless router, you may also need to install a wireless card in your PC in order to use it, unless the router also has a LAN port that you could use. I think most of them do, but I'm not really that familiar with wireless. Mine are all wired.

[HomeschoolrsRUs]

jayson: Right now it's kind of difficult to locate the two computers side by side ... my main computer (hardwired to the cable modem) is in my dining room next to my dining table, and there's no more room for another computer. I have a little niche in front of my dining table in front of a bookcase which is where I put her computer -- under 15 feet away, kitty-cornered from my desk ... an open hallway separates the two.

I COULD move my dining table out some (into the open hallway) and put the two computers side-by-side, but that would put the new computer directly in front of a window, which I'm real reluctant to do because mobile homes are notorious for window leaks.

Okay, I'm totally comfus-ed, http://www.freeconservatives.com/vb/images/icons/goofyeye.gif ... :D

I went to BestBuy and tried to talk with the salesman and he was SO MEAN! I threw up my hands in disgust and went to Walmart to get the other stuff I needed. Decided to try to talk to a salesperson at Walmart, and this fellow was so nice -- don't know if he directed me correctly or not, but at least he wasn't condescending and snarky.

This is what he told me to get (and what I got):

( 1 ) Linksys Wireless-G Broadband Router, rangemark 1X, speedmark 1X
( 1 ) Linksys Compact Wireless-G USB Adapter

The fellow said I hook the Broadband Router to my cable modem, and then to my computer (the hardwired one). I configure the wireless, (I guess that's what the Wireless Wizard in my windows control panel is for?), and then plug the Wireless USB Adapter into the new computer and configure it.

Does that sound right to y'all?

[Rhino]

I thought you said the new computer already had wireless. If that's true, you shouldn't need the USB Adapter.

[HomeschoolrsRUs]

I thought you said the new computer already had wireless. If that's true, you shouldn't need the USB Adapter.

I thought it did too, but apparently I was mistaking the info in the control panel (Wireless Network Set Up Wizard) for actually HAVING the wireless. The fellow said if I HAVE wireless, there would b a little antennae thingy sticking up out of the back of my tower ... I don't have one of those, :sad:.

It's all so confusing, I don't understand why a computer would have a Wireless Network Set Up Wizard if it didn't have wireless :rolleyes:.

[Rhino]

Stuff from Cox Cable. Not sure if all these links will work for you, since some are redirects. However you can get to them through Cox tech support by clicking the link on this page, http://www.cox.com/homenetworking/whatishn.asp:, and then doing a search for "wireless router configuration".

http://www.cox.com/homenetworking/whatishn.asp

Important! Adding additional computers to your account requires a one-time charge and a monthly fee. For pricing information, contact your local Cox Communications office.http://support.cox.com/sdccommon/asp/contentredirect.asp?sprt_cid=50490067-4919-490e-97f8-05440afe9ae1

http://support.cox.com/sdccommon/asp/contentredirect.asp?sprt_cid=b13c1f30-9b1d-40bc-8799-503e34ac7729

[Gonzo67]

It's all been pretty much covered, but a few things:

You say the new system has 128 mb RAM? If this is the case I must ask how you are running Windows XP on it. That's FAR too low for just about any of todays software to run on.

Keep in mind when deciding on how much memory to run, when you start your computer, Windows uses a nice chunk and allocates it to itself, depriving any program you run after windows has started. from using that chunk that windows needs. Windows will also take and release more memory as it needs it.

Then any program you run will have a "minimum requirement" that it will use. The more programs you use at one time (multi-tasking) the more memory gets used and held slowing other things down. This is often a very noticeable speed decrease.

While you are upgrading this system for wireless access, I suggest upgrading the memory as well. Be aware that motherboards have a specific limit to how much you can upgrade the memory for it. There is no way to know what that limit is without knowing the brand and model of the motherboard, and I have yet to see a motherboard with the name and model number stamped on it. So guessing is your only option. Since it's running XP, I would guess it's not an "ancient" MB, so you're most likely safe upgrading to 1gb RAM, you may even get away with going to 2gb.

Your 1gb processor should be fine, though it's probably upgradeable as well. Without knowing the motherboard, I would not go too high on the processor though. But that's a whole 'nother issue and a sticky chore if you're not familiar with changing them. Sensitive chips, and not something for a novice to do without careful instructions.

I never recommend "wireless" for many of the reasons stated in the thread so far. Signal theft is an important concern. There are ways to block and protect against it, but like with anything else computer related, there are ways AROUND those blocks as well. And the dedicated can hitch a free ride on the internet off your wireless connection. All the computers in this house are wired. The new house will have a "patch/server room" and be fully wired as well.

For wireless, you basically need your cable modem, the router, and wireless ethernet cards for each computer.

Your cable internet plugs into your modem, the modem connects to the router, and the router sends the signals to each wireless ethernet card that is installed into each computer.

As I said, I don't do "wireless" so I'm not the one to tell you about the settings for each component, but the above is the general "lay out" you're looking for.

As for moving your table to put the two computers side by side, it's a waste of time. If you're going to network the 2 systems, and share the same internet connection, You'll still want to go with a router no matter how close the 2 systems are located to each other. So put it where you originally intended.

Your brand choice for modem and router are good. Linksys is what I always use. Stores usually try to push the D-Link crap, I've never had anything but trouble with them. For modems, I like Motorola brands... the surfboard" modem line is great. been running one now for over 2 years straight, never been turned off, and it runs perfect now as it did when it was bought 2 years ago. Router is a Linksys, same thing... 2 years, not a single issue. And the built in firewall and port forwarding system is pretty straight forward and simple to configure and use (once you get used to it anyway). And the ethernet cards in both systems are Linksys as well, again, 2 years straight, not a single problem.

[Gonzo67]

I thought it did too, but apparently I was mistaking the info in the control panel (Wireless Network Set Up Wizard) for actually HAVING the wireless. The fellow said if I HAVE wireless, there would b a little antennae thingy sticking up out of the back of my tower ... I don't have one of those, .

It's all so confusing, I don't understand why a computer would have a Wireless Network Set Up Wizard if it didn't have wireless .


The "little antennae thingy" is the ethernet card. It's a small card you'll have to plug into a free slot on your motherboard. You'll need one card for each computer if you are changing to wireless. The card that your modem is plugged into on your main system is the ethernet card. That will need to be replaced with a wireless card (one with an antennae) to go wireless.

As for the "Wireless Network Set Up Wizard" that is a program built into windows for people just like you. :) No, I'm not saying for people who don't know how to set one up, It's for people who do not have a wireless network yet. It's there so if you WANT to set up a wireless network, you just install all the hardware (ethernet cards, modem, router) and then run that wizard on each computer and it will take you step by step through configuring all the hardware to work with your system.

Without the "wizard", you would need to go into each area of your system making the changes manually. And trust me, you do NOT want to have to do that. You'll end up eating your own brain before you're half way through.

But the wizard is there for everyone. It's built into windows, it's not actual hardware that's in your computer. It's a "program".

[Gonzo67]

Also: Extra notes....

When you run a router, it will contain a built in firewall. So if you are running windows firewall now, or any other software driven firewall, like McAffe or one that comes packaged with internet tools, virus protection, etc, I would recommend turning them off. You can run extra firewalls along with the firewalls built into routers, but it's really over-kill, and could cause problems running programs that require a specific open port on your system. You'll still want to run the virus protection portions of those programs, and any other extra features you currently run. It's only the firewalls that you'll want to deactivate. The router will handle that portion of your protection.

And about the "USB" stuff. That's something else I avoid recommending. You can only run so many USB attachments at one time. Now Mouse, keyboards, internet adaptors, etc are all comming "USB". It's a bad thing. Sure, it's really nice to be able to just plug something into a USB port and have it work. But if you look at your system, you'll find at most, 4 USB plugs. What happens when you buy that 5th peripheral that requires a USB port? Which one do you want to unplug? You wanna loose your mouse? How about removing your keyboard?

Simple rule of thumb to follow.... if it's an item you will use every time you turn your computer on, AVOID USB. You'll never use your computer without using your keyboard, so make sure you're keyboard connects with the ps2 plug. Same with your mouse. Everything in windows is point and click, you need your mouse all that time. Go ps2 with the mouse. You'll be accessing the internet all the time. So don't get a USB adapter, splurge... pay the whole $12 for an actual wireless ethernet card instead of the $10 for the USB adapter. There are 4 USB ports on my computer that have never been used. But they're available if I ever decide to get a web cam, or MP3 players, they're for items that I will rarely use. I can plug it in when I want to use it, and when I am done, unplug it and drop it in a drawer somewhere out of the way.

Never use a USB device as a perminant connection.

[Rhino]

The "little antennae thingy" is the ethernet card. It's a small card you'll have to plug into a free slot on your motherboard. You'll need one card for each computer if you are changing to wireless. The card that your modem is plugged into on your main system is the ethernet card. That will need to be replaced with a wireless card (one with an antennae) to go wireless.She's using a USB wireless device, and her existing computer will remain hard wired with the existing NIC.

I agree that more RAM would definitely be good.

[Gonzo67]

She's using a USB wireless device, and her existing computer will remain hard wired with the existing NIC.


Aye, I saw that, which is why I amended my previous additions recommending against USB. Most of the time, depending on what USB devices, if any, are already being use, USB won't present any problem, but I still consider USB to have been influenced by Satan, and I will always consider USB as something to be avoided when ever possible.

[Rhino]

The eMachines T1100 has two memory slots, each of which will support 256 MB 168 pin PC-133 RAM modules, for a maximum total of 512MB. Those modules go for anywhere from about $30 to $60, depending on brand and quality. Or you could just add another 128 MB module for about $20 to $40, but that would give only 256 MB total, which is probably still a bit low.

[Rhino]

I don't have any problem with USB, as long as you don't connect a bunch of devices at once. I usually max out at two or three devices at any given time. The computer will do many more, but I don't like to.

[Gonzo67]

The eMachines T1100 has two memory slots, each of which will support 256 MB 168 pin PC-133 RAM modules, for a maximum total of 512MB. Those modules go for anywhere from about $30 to $60, depending on brand and quality. Or you could just add another 128 MB module for about $20 to $40, but that would give only 256 MB total, which is probably still a bit low.


That is assuming that the MB in the system is the original that came with the system That's the problem with used systems, no idea what's still original and what's been upgraded.

Though if it is the original MB, I would suggest an upgrade there as well. Motherboards are not really expensive, and if you can find one that will allow more memory, give you more slots, and use your current processor, that would be a way to go if you're looking to keep your cost down as much as possible.

I would personally recommend upgrading the MB and still keeping cost down by looking for a package deal. Quite common for retailers like TigerDirect.com You can get a decent MB and Processor bundle for a reasonable price. But I would not recommend a novice do a self install for that. It's a lot of work stripping the system out so you can replace the MB. But it will allow a good increase in memory.

Upgrading the memory on the current MB (if it is indeed the original MB) will increase the speed a little, but it will still be incredibly slow even if the memory is maxed out. XP is a resource hog, and throwing high speed devices on top of it, you have the makings of installing a V-8 on a snail. All you get is a souped up snail that takes 2 hours to move an inch rather than it's original 2.5 hours.

I should also note that upgrading your motherboard usually results in the need to upgrade your power supply as well. So if you consider upgrading your MB and processor, you might want to add an additional $45 or so to include a power supply capable of supporting the new MB.

[Rhino]

The T1100 originally comes new with one 128 MB RAM module, so it's pretty likely that's what she has.

A motherboard is probably far outside Homes' comfort range.

[DoctorDoom]

A new puter suitable for the average user wouldn't cost much more than a good mobo. No doubt the young lady will be content with it for now, but eventually the need for a modern box will manifest itself.

More RAM is a must. If it has XP, 256 is the minimum. I run XP SP2 on this box with 512 megs and it's fairly happy.

[HomeschoolrsRUs]

Oh phooey, it's starting to sound like this "free" computer is not all that it's cracked up to be. :sad:

Gonzo, you're not the only one who said that about XP and the 128 RAM, the nasty dude at BestBuy said too. I think the lady we got the computer from, she has a brother that's a computer wizard, and perhaps he upgraded the box .... I was just copying the sticker on the front of the tower. How do I find out what it really has in it?

I'm very frustrated now, http://www.freeconservatives.com/vb/images/icons/icon9.gif. I spent $148 on an LCD monitor that doesn't work with the tower; $49.24 for the wireless USB; $49.96 for the G-Router.

Do you think, after taking those things back, I would have enough money from the refund to do all the things y'all are proposing if I take it to a computer tech (not BestBuy though)?

I just feel so bad -- for my daughter's birthday we got her an MP3 player that we can't get to work with our (original) computer, and now she gets a "new" computer and we can't even hook it up to the internet. Frustrated is an understatment for my life right now, http://www.freeconservatives.com/vb/images/icons/crazy000.gif.

[Gonzo67]

Gonzo, you're not the only one who said that about XP and the 128 RAM, the nasty dude at BestBuy said too. I think the lady we got the computer from, she has a brother that's a computer wizard, and perhaps he upgraded the box .... I was just copying the sticker on the front of the tower. How do I find out what it really has in it?


To see what your systems actual speed is, open up the control panel in Windows XP, and double click the System icon. On the general tab, you'll see your system's specs listed. Toward the bottom it will tell you your processor speed and how much RAM you have installed.


I'm very frustrated now, . I spent $148 on an LCD monitor that doesn't work with the tower; $49.24 for the wireless USB; $49.96 for the G-Router.


Don't panic on the monitor. The reason it doesn't work, I am assuming, is because the plug is not the right type. It wont plug into the monitor port. The fix is not difficult, and doesn't have to be too expensive.

This is gonna take me a little while to post because I am gonna try to include some pictures so you know what to look for. Which means I'll have to look for some images to host while I make this post...

For your monitor, I am assuming the reason the LCD "doesn't work" is because you are unable to actually plug it in. Look at the back of your computer, there will be a video plug. It will look something like the following images, and it will be either Vertical or horizontal:

http://webpages.charter.net/gonzo367/crt-horz.jpg or http://webpages.charter.net/gonzo367/crt-vert.jpg

If it is vertical (second picture), that indicates that your video is "on board" meaning it's built in to the mother board. This is a standard VGA plug for a normal CRT.

To use the LCD, you need a plug that looks like this:

http://webpages.charter.net/gonzo367/dvi-plug.jpg

This is generally called a DVI connection. Fortunately, you can get a video card that will support BOTH kinds. The plate on the separate video card should look sort of like this one...

http://webpages.charter.net/gonzo367/lcd-crt plug.jpg

If you go to say, TigerDirect.com (no, I don't work for them, though I know it almost seems as if I "plug" them in every tech post I make lol) you can get a card like that for not a lot of cash.

But before you do, you have to determine if you need an AGP or a PCI version. For that, you have to actually open the side of your computer. Looking inside, you'll see your "expansion slots". These are the slots that "cards" plug into. Depending on the age of your mother board, there might actually be 3 different types of slots. They will look like this:

http://webpages.charter.net/gonzo367/mb-slots.jpg

The AGP slot, if you have one, will most likely be off-set from all the other slots, be slightly longer, and will most likely have a small white clip at one end that is used to lock the card down once it's plugged in.

If you do not have an AGP slot, you'll need to get a PCI video card. Installing it is not difficult, simply plug the card into the slot, screw the plate to the tower frame, and plug the monitor into the new plug on the back of your computer. You might need to go into the bios to deactivate the on board video, but you can first try to start windows up, that step might not be necessary, it all depends on your system.

You can get such a video card for around $49 (don't go for anything high end until you decide later if you need more power in your FX. But with the memory your computer has, getting a high end video card would not be an option anyway).

Though, a much simpler solution would be to take the LCD monitor back, and look online. You'll find incredible deals on refurbished CRT's. You could probably pick up a good, refurbished 19 inch CRT for $20 to $40 that will work with the tower the way it sits now without buying a new video card.

Flat screens are nice, I agree, but the frills cost more, and a CRT will accomplish the exact same thing an LCD accomplishes. It let's you see the web page you're viewing. So don't rush to take all the internet gear you bought back to the store, there's still hope for that "new" system, you just have to switch a couple things around.

If you want my recommendation, I recommend loosing the LCD and picking up a CRT. You'll be money ahead on the video problem, and that fix is a lot easier to implement. The plug on the CRT will match the socket on the back of your computer, and you wont need to change any software settings or install any new hardware components to get it working. Simply plug it in and you're set.

The memory, that's also easy. follow the instructions at the beginning of this post to see how much RAM you actually have, tell us what it is, and we can tell you exactly how many "modules" you have installed. If you decide to increase your memory, I can provide you with a few more pictures and tell you exactly how to install them without the need of visiting a "prick computer tech" at Best Buy or some other place.

[HomeschoolrsRUs]

To see what your systems actual speed is, open up the control panel in Windows XP, and double click the System icon. On the general tab, you'll see your system's specs listed. Toward the bottom it will tell you your processor speed and how much RAM you have installed.

I checked, it really is 128mb RAM! Intell Celleron Processor, 1ghz. Weird huh? It has the XP on it though, says so:
Microsoft Windows XP Home Editon
Version 2002 Service Pack 2

Don't panic on the monitor. The reason it doesn't work, I am assuming, is because the plug is not the right type. It wont plug into the monitor port. The fix is not difficult, and doesn't have to be too expensive.

No, I can plug it in, actually I did plug it in, hooked it all up and everything. The monitor would not turn on. The power button would flash but then turn off. I could never get it to stay on. I figured it might have something to do with the age of the computer, or th graphics card maybe?

This is gonna take me a little while to post because I am gonna try to include some pictures so you know what to look for. Which means I'll have to look for some images to host while I make this post...

For your monitor, I am assuming the reason the LCD "doesn't work" is because you are unable to actually plug it in. Look at the back of your computer, there will be a video plug. It will look something like the following images, and it will be either Vertical or horizontal:

http://webpages.charter.net/gonzo367/crt-horz.jpg or http://webpages.charter.net/gonzo367/crt-vert.jpg

If it is vertical (second picture), that indicates that your video is "on board" meaning it's built in to the mother board. This is a standard VGA plug for a normal CRT.

To use the LCD, you need a plug that looks like this:

http://webpages.charter.net/gonzo367/dvi-plug.jpg

That explains it -- I was plugging it in to the wrong place.

Though, a much simpler solution would be to take the LCD monitor back, and look online. You'll find incredible deals on refurbished CRT's. You could probably pick up a good, refurbished 19 inch CRT for $20 to $40 that will work with the tower the way it sits now without buying a new video card.

Actually, the computer came with a CRT, but it's SO big! I wanted the LCD because it was slim, and would help fit the computer system into the little niche area I have put it in. There's nothing really wrong with the CRT, so I just hooked it up. Just sticks out so far, but once I get a new small computer desk, instead of trying to put it on an end table taken out of my bedroom :smirky:, it will be fine, LOL.

The memory, that's also easy. follow the instructions at the beginning of this post to see how much RAM you actually have, tell us what it is, and we can tell you exactly how many "modules" you have installed. If you decide to increase your memory, I can provide you with a few more pictures and tell you exactly how to install them without the need of visiting a "prick computer tech" at Best Buy or some other place.

I have to tell ya, I'm intimidated as all get out to open up the tower and mess with things. That scares the jeepers outta me http://www.freeconservatives.com/vb/images/icons/frighten1.gif -- but I really don't want to have to spend extra money on labor (for a tech geek) if I can do it mysef. I'm betting the farm the reason my friend got a new computer is beause she was running too much on this machine and it kept freezing and stuff because she didn't have enough of whatever it is that it needs to run properly.

Due to the info Rhino listed, I think I'm going to have to contact Cox Cable about adding another machine for the internet ... if that is the case, I might as well get THEIR internet router (trading in my cable modem box, for the dual purpose one) if I'm going to have to pay a monthly charge for an additional computer anyway.

If that is the case, I might as well upgrade the computer as much as I cand with the money I get back from taking that equipment back ... what do you think? You really thiink it's something I can do myself? I feel I'm really good at following directions, I've done a lot, and come a long way towards becoming more computer proficient (even though I'm WAY far from being as techie as you, Rhino, and Doc!). I'm willing to try (with good directions, :D) if it will save me boocoo buckeroonies wasted on a computer geek (no offense to computer geeks http://www.freeconservatives.com/vb/images/icons/icon12.gif ).

[Gonzo67]

Yes, installing memory is quite easy. And you needn't panic about cracking open the case. It only LOOKS "intimidating" in there. There's not a whole lot too it in reality.

So, sit back, and I'll try to lace my post with enough pictures to help you along...

Lets start with the back of your 'puter.

First thing's first. Unplug EVERYTHING. So it will probably be a good idea to keep this thread open on your machine, and pull a small coffee table over to sit the other system on so you can work on it in sight of this thread.

Once everything on the back of the other system is unplugged, you'll want to open the case. Looking at the FRONT of the case, the side you want to open will most likely be the left side. Some cases will allow you to remove one side or the other, some cases you have to slide the entire case open. I can't find any pics of the eMachines model you have, so I do not know which it is. At any rate, turn the case around so that you're looking at the back. It will resemble this:

http://webpages.charter.net/gonzo367/case.jpg

You'll want to remove the screws on the edges. If you're able to open only the left side, (will be the right side if you are looking at the back) then only remove the screws on that side, and remove the side panel.This should let you see into your system and see all that intimidating crap inside.

At this point, you're likely to also see a lot of dust inside there. RESIST THE TEMPTATION to reach inside and start scraping all that dust out! As a matter of fact, resist the temptation to reach inside it at all for right now. There's still some preparations to make.

Now you want to gently lay the computer tower down on it's side. Since I've walked people through fixing their systems before, I know it's sometimes necessary to stress this following point. When you lay it down on it's side, make sure you leave the open side UP so that you can remove and install components. If you lay it open side down, you're gonna have trouble removing or installing things. :)

Now that it's laying down (open side up hopefully), you want to be aware that static electricity is NOT your friend. Sure, it's fun to shuffle across a carpet and zap your kids, but when working with a computer, that's a no-no.

Since you don't do this very often, it's safe to assume you don't have a grounding strap. Or if you do, I'm betting you wouldn't know what it was to know you had one. So you'll use the "poor mans grounding strap". A short sleeve shirt.

Be wearing one. Or if you have long sleeves on, roll them up. We wanna see some skin sugar! :)

Now, If you are right handed, your left arm is gonna be your ground strap. If you're left handed, then you'll use your right arm to ground. I'll assume you are right handed. I want you to lay your left arm on the computer case. Make sure you have skin touching the bare metal of the chassis. If you just have your arm laying on the painted metal case, or the plastic edge of the face plate, it's not gonna help. You need skin on bare metal. This will keep you from zapping any of the chips inside with a stray shot of static from your finger tips.

Now, you need to look inside the case. You want to find your RAM slots. They're not hard to find. There will be only 2 or 3 of them, you're not likely to have more than 3. They will be thin, somewhat long, and from your information of having only 128mb of RAM, if there are 3 slots, 2 of them will be empty and 1 of them will have a long rectangular, thin card plugged into it.

The slots will look like this:

http://webpages.charter.net/gonzo367/RAMslots.jpg

The slots may be a different color, black, brown, blue, etc. But they will resemble those in the pic above, and there will be little levers at each end of each slot.

In one of those slots there will be a ram module. It will look like this one...

http://webpages.charter.net/gonzo367/ram-mod.jpg

That is your stick of RAM. They come in different types, depending on the number of pins. So what you're gonna want to do is take that stick out and go get it matched.

While your left arm is still touching bare metal (it IS still touching bare metal, right?) you're gonna use your index finger to push down the little levers at each end of the slot that contains the stick of RAM. This will unlock the module so that it can be removed. If you do it properly, you'll see the module will shake a bit, maybe tilt to the side, or one end will raise slightly, etc. At any rate, once it's unlocked, you can take the stick out, and it should come out extremely easy. Try to touch it as little as possible, and if you can, try to always hold it by the edges, avoid touching the pins on the bottom. You want to keep skin oil from getting on them, because you're gonna be plugging that thing back in later. And because of this, you'll want to remember WHICH slot you took it out of. Because that is the number 1 slot. And you must fill the slots in order. If you put a new module in a different slot, leaving the number 1 slot empty, it wont work.

Now put that module in an envelope and take it for a ride (modules like that - just don't let it stick it's head out the window, it's not a dog after all!). Go to Best Buy, or Circuit City, or what ever computer store you want, and take that module inside with you.

Once inside, you have a few options. You can get a stick of 128mb RAM (making sure it's the same number of pins - This is why you brought your stick with you, so you can compare) and upgrade to 256mb RAM. This will still leave you running a bit slow, but it's the minimum required for Windows XP.

If you have the money, I recommend you buy 2 sticks of 256mb RAM (with the same pin count as the stick you brought with you) and upgrade it to 512mb. This will give you a noticeable speed boost, and it's not expensive.

Once you have the new memory in hand, you'll want to pick up one more small item while you are here. A can of tech dust. Just a small can of static free compressed air. Once you have this stuff, go home, you have a sick computer that needs you, so you can't be out running around and playing all night!

Ok, now you're home, you got your stuff, time to operate.

First, stand the case back up, and take out that can of tech dust. It may have come with a small red plastic tube that you can put on it, if so, go ahead and connect that to the can.

Now, looking inside the case, you'll want to spray that air at the motherboard, but don't just hold the button down and blow everything out. You'll want to spray it out in short bursts. If you hold it down for a long time, the air coming out will get progressively colder, and that's not good for the stuff in your computer. Make sure to blow out any open slots, like your RAM slots, PCI slots, etc. There will be plenty of dust in there, so get as much out as you can.

Also, be careful of your fans. Make sure your left arm is again touching bare metal (bet you forgot about doing that, didn't you! Shame on you!) and then put one finger against the fan blade so the fan doesn't spin when you hit it with the compressed air. The air will make the fan spin faster than it's built to spin, and this will shorten the life of your fans. So keep them from spinning when blowing your system out.

Once you have all the dust out, and have made a nice big mess all over your living room carpet, GENTLY lay the case back down.

Now, if you only bought another 128mb ram module, you'll want to put your original module back in the number 1 slot that you removed it from.

See..... there ya go, just jamming that thing on in there... you forgot about TOUCHING BARE METAL! Skin to the chassis! Ground out, THEN install the RAM. :)

Ok, look at the RAM stick. On the bottom of it, where the pins are, Those go into the slot. But you'll notice the RAM module has a slot cut into it. So the pins are in 2 groups. you'll also notice that the slot is not in the exact center of the module. You'll also notice the slot you're about to plug it in to is actually 2 slots laying end to end. one short, the other slightly longer. This is so the module will only plug in the proper way. So make sure you're plugging it in the right way, and then carefully insert the module, pins down, into the slot.

It might be a little tough, you'll have to make sure it's firmly seated in the slot. Once you have it plugged in all the way, you want to lift those little levels at each end of the module up until they click into place and lock the stick in.

Then you want to do the same thing for the second stick of 128mb you purchased.

Now, if you purchased 2 sticks of 256mb, you might be able to sneak more than 512mb into the mix.

First, you want to plug one of the 256mb sticks into the number 1 slot, in exactly the same way I listed above, and then plug the second 256mb stick into the very next slot. Now, if you have a 3rd memory slot, you can plug your 128mb module into that slot. That will give you 640mb memory. It's not a huge improvement, but it'll give you a little more wiggle room, and why waste the memory if you got it to spare? :)

If you only have 2 memory slots though, and you bought a couple 256mb sticks, go with them, and put that 128mb away somewhere safe. If one of your RAM modules go bad in the future, you have that to throw in it's place until you can replace the bad one.

once that's all done, stand the case back up, put the side back on it, replace the screws in the back, plug everything back in, and turn your computer on.

Fortunately, with Windows, there's no need to "configure" the new memory, it's all plug and play, so you can open your control panel, double click the system icon, check the general tab, and it should now report the new amount of memory you have in your system.

And you did it all yourself, with little to no blood shed, and you didn't have to deal with some arrogant, computer geek at Best Buy! :)

Congratulations. We'll make a tech out of you yet!

[Suzie]

Homsey this is what we have husbands for. :biggrin:

[Gonzo67]

Actually, I've found that if you have a man and a woman, both with no knowledge of upgrading or working on a computer, it's usually easier for the woman to be walked through performing the upgrade or repair than it is for the man. Male ego gets in the way, and women are more likely to follow the directions and do each step in order, without second guessing and thinking that they would be able to accomplish the task easier if they did it their way.

[DoctorDoom]

I checked, it really is 128mb RAM! Intell Celleron Processor, 1ghz. Weird huh? It has the XP on it though, says so:

Microsoft Windows XP Home Editon
Version 2002 Service Pack 2And it runs? Betcha it's slower than Hillary admitting she lied.

[HomeschoolrsRUs]

And it runs? Betcha it's slower than Hillary admitting she lied.

Boy are you tellin' me! I just thought the thing was full of "junk" (like games and stuff) and/or virus/worms ... I did a thorough cleaning of all the documents and programs, temp files and recycle bin, and while it cleared up A LOT of disc space, it did nothing for the speed and the "pages" sticking. NOW I know why, :smirky:

[HomeschoolrsRUs]

Actually, I've found that if you have a man and a woman, both with no knowledge of upgrading or working on a computer, it's usually easier for the woman to be walked through performing the upgrade or repair than it is for the man. Male ego gets in the way, and women are more likely to follow the directions and do each step in order, without second guessing and thinking that they would be able to accomplish the task easier if they did it their way.

:lashes: But of course! :smirky:

Okay Gonzo (and Doc, and whoever else is helping me, :D), I'm going to attempt this in about an hour ... I have to go to the stupid post office and fill out forms to PROVE I'm legal (although I've had the same dog-gone post office box for 20 years now!), and you know how long it takes things at the post office!

I'll be back! :thumb:

Thanks for all the help!!!

[DoctorDoom]

... it did nothing for the speed ...Windows, when faced with limited RAM, uses a "page file" on the hard drive as virtual memory. It moves "pages" (4 KB blocks) of data back and forth between the physical memory and the hard drive, thus keeping what it's using at the moment in RAM. The down side is that the hard drive is thousands of times slower than RAM, and therefore the performance suffers greatly.

You've doubtless noted that the drive activity light is flashing constantly or sometimes just staying on. Most of that is paging.

You can reduce it by turning off crap in the system tray (lower left, by the clock) that doesn't need to be running. Although XP has "config.sys", it's easier to use Startup Control Panel (http://www.mlin.net/StartupCPL.shtml) tro shut off the junk.

If you fetch it, the standalone version is better. It doesn't install anything and it runs from wherever it's saved.


BTW, with all the stuff that was purged, this would be a good time to run the defragmenter.

Open My Computer. Then right-click the C: drive, then click Properties > Tools > Defragmentation. I'm not sure how fast the XP version it, but previous Windows defraggers were, to be kind, sluggish. It will take a while IAC. But when it's done, you should gain a little speed.

Supposedly, NTFS drives (2000, XP and Vista) don't need defragging, but the fact is that they don't need it as often. Over time, fragmentation will occur and it will slow down the drive.

[Gonzo67]

Supposedly, NTFS drives (2000, XP and Vista) don't need defragging, but the fact is that they don't need it as often. Over time, fragmentation will occur and it will slow down the drive.


They claim they don't need Defragging, but I can vouch for the fact that they do.

The NTFS system started in Windows ME, you had to use NTFS if you had a hard drive over 2gb. Windows was unable to properly report the amount of available disk space over 2gb on the normal FAT16.

the FAT16 finally allowed the use of long file names, breaking the standard 8.3 naming convention, but it still had the limit of a 2gb hard drive support. Even on XP, if you have a hard drive larger than 2gb, and you use FAT16 on it, XP will still report it as a 2gb hard drive. You don't actually loose the space, but the "space remaining" will not be properly reported until you drop below 2gb remaining free space on the drive.

NTFS solved that, supporting the larger drives, and it was supposed to use a new sector scanning technique to greatly reduce file fragmenting. It's supposed to scan the disk looking for blocks of free sectors large enough to place the entire file it's trying to write to avoid fragmenting the file. But that only addresses the fragmenting of a single file. The larger programs, having sometimes hundreds of files, makes it impossible for NTFS to find free space large enough to lay out the entire program. So while you still have individual files that were not fragmented, the computer is still forced to search the disk for all the files it needs for a particular operation. Also, with the size of programs today, even the disks that can be considered fairly large by todays standard fill up quite quickly and the system is reduced to once again not only fragmenting the program, but fragmenting individual files within the program.

The problem with file fragmentation will never be solved, and defragmenting your HD regularly is the only way we'll ever keep it under control. We'll just have to accept that the time required to run a full disk defrag is a necessary evil. Which makes the scheduled task feature in Windows a useful feature. Just pick 1 night a month, leave your computer running, and let windows start up and run a defrag while you sleep. With any luck, it'll be finished by the time you need the computer the next day. If it's not, either you have way too much stuff on your computer, or your computer is way too slow. In either case, a HD upgrade, or a speed upgrade is definitely needed. :)

[DoctorDoom]

One major cause of fragmenting is a dynamic page file (aka swap file in older versions of Windows). Allowing Windows to set the size guarantees parts of it scattered all over the drive in any convenient hole.

The solution to this, other than a gig of RAM to render the page file inactive—and even then, XP and programs still store stuff in it— is to set a specific file size which Windows allocates to a specific block of HD real estate.

Here's how to do it.

First, the order of preferability for the location of the file:

1st choice: on a separate hard drive;
2nd choice: on a separate patition of the main drive;
3rd choice: on the C: drive.

My main puter has seven partitions in two drives. The page file is set to 1.5 GB in a partition of the slave drive. Most boxes don't have that option, and the vast majority of home computers don't even have partitions on the drive. Give some thought to defrag time on a 300 gig hard drive after a year of typical home use. AAUUGGHH!!

IAC, to set a fixed page file size:

1. Defrag the target drive for the file to free up the maximum amount of space.

2. Hold the Windows logo key and hit Pause Break (top row, far right), or right-click My Computer and select Properties. Either one will open the System Properties window.

3. Click the Advanced tab.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v349/DocDoom777/CompTech/PageFile1.jpg

4. Click Settings in the Performance sections. This opens Performance Options. Click Advanced.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v349/DocDoom777/CompTech/PageFile2.jpg

4. At the bottom is Virtual Memory. Click Change. That opens this window.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v349/DocDoom777/CompTech/PageFile3.jpg

5. It will default to the C: drive. If it is the only drive and is unpartitioned, that's all that will be there. IAC, highlight the drive or partition for the page file and click the Custom Size radio button.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v349/DocDoom777/CompTech/PageFile4.jpg

6. Enter the same value in Initial size (MB) and Maximum size (MB). Note the requirement for megabytes. 1000 MB = 1 GB.

Windows defaults to a maximum of 1.5 times the installed RAM. Conventional wisdom is to set it to 2 to 3 times the amount of RAM, to allow room for memory dumps, programs that use beaucoup RAM, etcetera. How big it should actually be is a cause for a long-standing debate.

Here's a useful page: Sizing the Page File (http://www.theeldergeek.com/sizing_the_page_file.htm). It's part of a multi-page tutorial (http://www.theeldergeek.com/paging_file.htm) on the subject.

7. When the values are entered, OK everything and reboot to set the file. Ignore any dire warnings from Windows. It begrudgingly relinquishes control of anything that Redmond thinks should be sacrosanct.

On Homes' machine, the 20 GB drive doesn't allow a lot of room for a page file. With 512 MB of RAM, the default of 1.5x would be 768 MB and would be adequate for typical daughter uses.

Of course, adding a 100 GB or larger slave drive to the machine would eliminate space considerations. :biggrin:

[Gonzo67]

Ok, starting to get worried now.

Homes hasn't been back since her trip to the post office. So, did she go to the post office unarmed and get taken hostage by a mail main that was packing?

Or did she follow my instructions and forget to ground herself to the computer before reaching inside, triggering a massive static explosion in the fragile computer chips, leveling the entire neighborhood causing a 3 week rescue attempt while they look for survivors?

Don't keep us in suspenders Homes... Was the upgrade successful? Or did you panic at the last second and decide to suffer the computer geek at best buy? :)

[HomeschoolrsRUs]

You thought I was out your hair, didn't you now Gonzo ... bwaahahahahaha (evil laugh)

Nope, I'm still here, and just more frustrated that I was before. I took the other stuff back the went to BestBuy to get the board thingy... they didn't have any! I asked the fellow there to help me and he said (man I wish I would have taken notes) that the card thing I need is old, and they've switched to a new one and they are sold out of the old ones and probably won't get anymore. Does that make sense? I actually got the feeling that they really only want me to buy a new computer.

I'm so frustrated, :( I think I'm too much of a pushover at the computer store because I don't know what I'm talking about. I think I should have printed out what you wrote (Gonzo) and taken it with me.

I gave up. I refuse to pay $200-$300 to "fix" this computer, paying labor to computer geeks. I think I'm just going to have to stick to my original plan and keep saving for a brand new computer. The one the fellow showed me was a "quad-core"? The screen was HUGE, and he said it was perfect for multi-media projects! Think I'll get the new one for me and just pass this one down to my daughter.

The only thing that upsets me the most is having a second computer that I can do absolutely nothing with :( I can't get on the internet, my daughter can't use it for schooling, or anything. So disappointing :( I wish I had a friend down here who was computer-talented, or we had a reliable independent computer geek that I knew I could go to to see if there's anything that can be done with this computer. I looked in the yellow pages, but I'm afraid I'm going to be in the same boat and get taken advantage of.

Oh well, we've survived this long with one computer, I guess we'll make it a little bit longer.

Oh yeah, I did defragment it after I cleaned all te games, documents, extraneous programs and stuff out. Really didn't seem to help much, unfortunately.

[Gonzo67]

Well, the RAM you need is probably a little older, so there will be a small hassle in getting it, but it's not impossible. I'll try to find the specs on your system to see exactly what type you need, and you should have no problem getting it from TigerDirect.com or Zipzoomfly.com or any of the online dealers. The bad thing about Best Buy (apart from the pushy sales staff who know next to nothing about computers and are only programed to push new systems that the customer does not need) is that they have a very limited stock on upgrades. The computer portion of their business is centered around new systems. Let me see if I can find the one you need.

[Gonzo67]

Ok, this is what I have found....

The original specs for your system are:

CPU: Intel® Celeron® Processor 1GHz (w/128KB)
Operating System: Genuine Microsoft® Windows® XP Home Edition

Chipset: Intel® 810 chipset, 100MHz FSB
Memory: 128MB SDRAM
Hard Drive: 20GB HDD
Optical Drive: 12x Max. Write CD-RW Drive; 3.5" 1.44MB FDD
Video: Intel® DirectAGP 3D (810 shared)
Sound: Intel® 82801 AC '97 Audio
Modem: 56K ITU v.92-ready PCI internal Fax/Modem
Peripherals: Keyboard, Mouse, Stereo Speakers
Ports/Other: 2 USB ports (1 on front bezel), 1 Serial, 1 Parallel, 2 PS/2, Audio In & Out, 1
Midi/Game on front bezel, Mic-In & Head Phone jack on front
Internet Access: AOL 3 month membership included
Software: Microsoft® Windows® XP Home Edition, Works 2000, Money, Encarta® Online, Adobe® Acrobat® Reader™, Media Player, Internet Explorer, AOL® 6.0

That's how it came new. Though why a company would ship a new computer with windows XP and only 128mb of RAM is beyond me. Idiots. This is why I do not recommend pre-built systems. Custom or nothing.

No pin count listed for your RAM, but being SDRAM, it's safe to assume 168 pin PC133 RAM. Could be PC100, but I doubt it, not with a 1gb processor. PC100 is a bit older, and if it shipped new with a 1gb, it's probably not old enough that they would have installed older memory. I am also assuming you have only 2 RAM slots. If you have more, you most likely can not upgrade beyond 1gb (will actually total out to 1024mb RAM max).

By the looks of the specs, I would say the max memory your motherboard will support is 1gb. Here's a couple links for you.

TigerDirect: Centon 128mb (http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3344592&CatId=544)- single stick will upgrade you to 256mb. I've never used Centon Memory, so I can not comment on the quality of their products. This was the cheapest 128mb module in stock. Use this single stick in addition to your original stick for 256mb RAM.

$12.99 per stick. + shipping

TigerDirect: K-Byte 128mb (http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=302016&CatId=544) - Single stick. I have used K-Byte memory in the past. They are reliable. $2 more, but worth it if you want to be sure of quality. Same amount as the Centron, same limitations. Use a single stick with your existing stick to upgrade to 256mb.

$14.99 per stick + shipping

256mb is the minimum for windows XP to run with any reliability.

Now, if you want to consider a decent upgrade, the following is possible:

TigerDirect: US Modular 256mb (http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1212561&CatId=544)- I have used US Modular in the past as well. They are also reliable. If you buy 2 of these, you will have 512mb RAM. If you do have a 3rd memory slot, you can use your stick of 128mb in the last slot, giving you 640mb. If you only have 2 slots, I suggest using 2 sticks of 256mb, and not mixing a single 256mb with the single 128mb. It's always best to run memory in pairs. 512mb will give you a very noticeable speed increase, and will boost system performance significantly.

$32.99 per stick + shipping. This one has a $5 mail in rebate, bringing the cost to $27.99 but it's a mail in, so you have to pay the $32.99 and send in a copy of the receipt and the UPC Bar Code from the package to get $5 back in the mail. There's a limit of 1 rebate per person, per address. But that's not to say that you can not send in the second rebate and use a friends name and address for them to send it to. I've done that on more than one occasion. :)

If you are able to afford it, and want to upgrade to the max memory your system can handle, you can go the following rout:

TigerDirect: Centon 512mb (http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2855814&CatId=544)- Again, never used Centon, so I can not comment on quality or reliability. But this was the cheapest module they had in stock. Using 2 sticks of 512mb will give you 1gb RAM. This is most likely the limit of your motherboard. You will notice a huge increase in system performance, and this is more than enough memory to handle Windows XP for normal day to day use.

$49.99 per stick + shipping

Also:

TigerDirect: PNY 512mb (http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=111533&CatId=544)- I have used PNY products the most. I currently have PNY memory and my GeForce Video Card is a PNY card. Very reliable products, I've never had any problems with any PNY products. It's a couple dollars more than the Centon, but it's worth it for piece of mind. 2 of these will boost you to 1gb RAM.

$51.99 per stick + shipping

So all is not lost. You can still upgrade the memory on that machine, even if the tech geeks at BestBuy are being butt-nuggets. ;)

[buckeyepete]

:( I wish I had a friend down here who was computer-talented, or we had a reliable independent computer geek that I knew I could go to to see if there's anything that can be done with this computer.-from Holmes post.......................

Any time I have a problem with my 'puter', my 'in-house geek' is just a room away.

Now, here's the deal.

I'll send Gonzo to you, FED_X and you can keep him through Christmas. But, and here's the good part, I'll also send his Ma with him, cause he has night shift as far as her care goes. But, don't worry about her, cause she's a lot of fun to play with in her wheel chair.

Just send me an address, and I'll set things in motion.:evilgrin:


:claps: It's Party Time at the Kessler house!:roar:

[HomeschoolrsRUs]

:roar: Pete, you are a hoot!

I'm sure it would be an, well let's just say "experience" having Gonzo around, :D



Gonzo,
THANK YOU SO MUCH for all of that information! I was so discouraged after going to BestBuy. I'm going to print everything, and I might even open my box, and if it will work, take a digital picture of the "guts" and post it here -- perhaps that would help? I spent about $250 on the wireless stuff and the monitor, so I have that much to play with in buying the new "sticks". I want to get the most I can get. A new computer is not in my immediate future (unless we get a really good chunk on Bubba's retroactive raise check in December, now wouldn't THAT be wonderful!), and I've got 2-1/2 more years of homeschooling ahead for my daughter -- having the extra computer would REALLY help!

Thanks again, Gonzo, your kindess is greatly appreciated.

I must say, we have the BEST people posting here at FC. But I don't know how I'm going to split my first-born up to send him to Doc, Rhino, Gonzo, Suzie, ..... :smirky:

[DoctorDoom]

Here are the memory specs from the Crucial website:

http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.aspx?model=T1100

Maximum Memory: 512MB
Standard Memory: 128MB removable
Slots: 2 (2 banks of 1)

Each memory slot can hold SDRAM, PC133 with a maximum of 256MB per slot.*

*Not to exceed manufacturer supported memory.

Here's the Crucial RAM stick:

http://www.crucial.com/store/mpartspecs.aspx?mtbpoid=6F3D546DA5CA7304

256MB, 168-pin DIMM, SDRAM, PC133 memory module

CT237811US $53.99

Module Size: 256MB
Package: 168-pin DIMM
Feature: SDRAM, PC133
Specs: SDRAM, PC133 • CL=2 • Unbuffered • Non-parity • 133MHz • 3.3V • 32Meg x 64

512 is the machine's maximum. Buying more would waste your bucks and most likelky wouldn't work, because the motherboard woin't support it.

Also, from the Crucial web pages:

USB Support: 1.x Compliant

Not even USB 2.0. Don't expect speed from USB-connected storage. And the USB-connected wireless adaptor will probably not work properly if at all, since they're rated for USB 2.0. I'd recommend returning the adapter and going with a PCI wireless card. Here's a typical one.

http://www.provantage.com/TDWW010.GIF

TEW-423PI 802.11g 54Mbps Wireless PCI Adapter (http://www.provantage.com/trendnet-tew-423pi~7TDWW010.htm)

If you go that route, be sure the computer is aligned so that the computer case is not between the antenna and the wireless router.

[Gonzo67]

Good deal, Doc found the info on the motherboard I was unable to find. So looks like you can not go 1gb of ram. So ignore the information about the 512mb sticks, unless you just buy 1 stick of 512mb. If you want to fill both slots, buy 2 sticks of 256mb.

You'll still like the way it runs a lot better with 512mb in it, as opposed to 128mb.

[Rhino]

The NTFS system started in Windows ME...You meant to say NT, right? NTFS is the NT File System, and was introduced with NT 3.1 in 1992. ME didn't come along until 8 years later, and it did not use NTFS. It was FAT 32.

[Rhino]

Good deal, Doc found the info on the motherboard I was unable to find. So looks like you can not go 1gb of ram.You guys don't listen to me. I posted that info three days ago.

[DoctorDoom]

In fact you DID, good sir. Post #17:

The eMachines T1100 has two memory slots, each of which will support 256 MB 168 pin PC-133 RAM modules, for a maximum total of 512MB. Those modules go for anywhere from about $30 to $60, depending on brand and quality. Or you could just add another 128 MB module for about $20 to $40, but that would give only 256 MB total, which is probably still a bit low.Somehow I missed that. I hate when that happens.

[Gonzo67]

Aye, you did Rhino, apologies. 3 pages and a lot of stuff here I am working on in addition to responses on FC, if it's not on the same page I am posting on, it's likely to slip my mind. :)

[Rhino]

I don't get no respect! :rotflmbo:

[HomeschoolrsRUs]

But I offered a fourth of my first born, isn't that enough, now you want R-E-S-P-E-C-T too??? :smirky: